Korean Skincare

Niacinamide is phenomenal ingredient that is versatile in that it can be used by all skin types and offers a range of benefits.  It is a standout active, best known for minimizing enlarged pores, improving skin tone and brightness and works at keeping new discolouration from appearing, it can tighten lax skin and improve lack-lustre or dull skin.

It helps your skin build a ceremide barrier and in so doing, prevents moisture loss and dehydration.  Niacinamide also has the ability to regulate and stabilize oil production, it helps repair the skin barrier and is therefore a must-have choice for acne and blemish-prone skins.  This is one of those all-round ingredients and works well with Vitamin C, Retinol, peptides, AHA’s, BHA’s and salicylic acid to provide advanced results.

Using Niacinamide together with other antioxidants like Vitamin C and retinol will boost skin radiance and give a smoother more even complexion.  It functions the best in products that stay on the skin like serums and moisturizers rather than rinse off products like cleansers etc. The teenage and adolescent years are the best time to start with Niacinamide, it is widely tolerated.

Some of the side effects experienced include flushing of the skin and mild irritation.  Often going slowly resolves these side effects, so reintroducing it slowly will lead to an increased tolerance.

Vitamin C stimulates the skins production of collagen.  Collagen is a protein that increases skin firmness and elasticity.  Vitamin C is a favourite ingredient that can slow skin aging, prevent sun damage and improve dark spots and acne.  It is a powerful antioxidant, and this means it fights free radicals that come into contact with your skin.

Clinical Studies have shown that Vitamin C can improve wrinkles and fine lines.  It can protect the skin from the harm of UV rays when used together with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.  Vitamin C blocks the production of pigment in the skin and help improve dark spots.  This powerhouse helps acne prone skin through its anti-inflammatory properties and also helps control sebum production.  Vitamin C can lead to some irritation, including redness and sensitivity and even burning and should be introduced slowly and gently.  Irritation is often a sign that the concentration is too high and perhaps starting at a lower concentration and then developing a tolerance is the way to go.

Vitamin C is found in serums and moisturizers.  It is a great addition to your day-time routine as it offers a boost to your sunscreen.  Vitamin C is another allrounder that is good for most skin types, including acne prone skins. Vitamin C pairs well with Retinol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides and Vitamin E.  You can use AHA’S and BHA’s while using Vitamin C, just use at different times, ie daytime and night-time routines.

Hyaluronic acid is produced naturally in your body.  It is a remarkable substance and helps the skin primarily by retaining moisture. It can bind to 1000x its weight in water.  Well moisturized skin refers to skin that is well hydrated and this is what hyaluronic acid does.  It plumps the skin.

It prompts your skin to make more collagen and elastin and can reduce scarring.  It makes your skin more flexible, adding elasticity and therefore reducing wrinkles and fine lines.  It is found in serums, moisturizers, toners, lotions and sheet masks.

Reactions to Hyaluronic acid are rare and it is safe to use while pregnant and nursing.  Hyaluronic acid is good for all skin types and is so beneficial for those struggling with dehydrated skin.  This magic ingredient pairs well with Retinol, vitamin C, Niacinamide, AHA’s such as glycolic and lactic acid, BHA’s, and benzoyl peroxide.

Ultimately Retinol, which is derived from Vitamin A, increases skin cell production, commonly known as cell turnover.  It exfoliates the skin and increases collagen production.  It is an antioxidant and therefore reduces free radicals in the skin.  It helps reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.  It is anti-aging, helps acne skin concerns by blocking the inflammatory pathway and keeping pores clear, it can assist in skin tone as well as strengthen the skin.

Retinol can help treat keratosis pilaris by smoothing out rough and bumpy skin. It is known to be safe and gentle, as long as the concentration is not too high as it can cause irritation and dryness.  Again, this is an active that needs to be added gently and gradually to your routine to gain tolerance.  If irritation occurs, use less frequently ie twice a week or use a lower concentration until tolerance is gained.  Often people think they are “allergic or sensitive” to actives when actually tolerance needs to be built slowly and gently.  If you have sensitive, dry or rosacea skin simply be cautious, gentle and slow.  The benefits of this ingredient are numerous and adding it to your regime will definitely bring great results. 

Be vigilant with your sun protection when using Retinol as it can make the top layer of skin thinner and thus more sensitive to sunlight and subsequent damage.  This is another must in your skin program.  It is included in serum and moisturizers. Retinol, Vitamin C and Niacinamide make an amazingly powerful combo as all three are antioxidants and work so well together. For acne, Niacinamide and retinol are a definite combo to include.  Retinol works well with ceramides, hyaluronic acid and your sunscreen.  Do not do Retinol and AHA’s such as glycolic and lactic acid, BHA’s such as salicylic acid or Benzoyl peroxide at the same time.  If you are using your retinol at night, then use these other actives in your daytime regime.

Bakuchiol is gaining popularity as the new retinol.  It is a botanical, and extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia  (commonly called babchi). This new wonder appears to stimulate collagen producing receptors in the skin, with less risk of irritation. It has many of the same benefits as retinol but with less side effects, as tolerance is greater. 

Bakuchiol is very effective when paired with Hyaluronic acid, squalane, ceramides and you can use your AHA’s, BHA’s at another time of the day but you don’t have to eliminate these ingredients.    It is found in serums and moisturizers. The application of bakuchiol is the same as Retinol.  Do not use a retinol product and a Bakuchiol product together, they have the same function, and this will irritate the skin.

This ingredient is truly a Korean phenomenon. It is made up of at least 6 components, namely, glycol-proteins, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, enzymes, elastin, antibacterial peptides and zinc. These components give different benefits.

It is an ingredient that boasts the following benefits: anti-aging, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, it gives a mild smoothing effects due to the glycolic acid, soothes irritation as it is loaded with alantoin.  It is rich in humectants, hyaluronic acid and is therefore very hydrating, these ingredients act in your skin to improve water retention, and this in turn supports barrier health. 

It cloaks the skin in a thin film that is deeply hydrating. It also boosts collagen production. It helps with acne scarring too.   This is one of those ingredients that gives multiple benefits in only one product. It is a gel like, rather thick substance but absorbs beautifully and quickly into the skin.  It can be used daily and using it in your night-time routine gives the mucin time to work its magic as you sleep.  One of the negatives is that some people can be allergic to snail mucin, but this is not common. 

And just for your very important information the snails are not harmed during the process of extracting the mucin, the process is very ethical as the snail mucin is harvested at snail farms where they glide over a mesh in a darkened room.  Once the mucin is collected, they go back out to the farm to graze.

Naturally derived from wheat and barley. It is not an exfoliating acid. It’s an antioxidant, it helps slow down the production of melanin and therefor helps with hyperpigmentation, it is antibacterial, minimizes oil production and therefore helps with acne and breakout. For it to be effective it needs to be above 10%. 

It helps Rosacea and redness, as it is an anti-inflammatory.  It can be used with retinol, BHA’s and Vitamin C. Using daily will deliver the best outcome.  It can cause some stinging in the beginning, but with persistent use this becomes less.  Always start out slowly and gently but if you find this ingredient causes irritation, use a Low percentage every other day to start. Sensitive skin will gradually build a tolerance to the ingredient.

Azelaic acid plays well with other actives. But do not use it together with Benzoyl Peroxide. Use the one in your evening routine and the other in the morning routine. If you have sensitive skin also use your AHA’s at another time.

Peptides have the ability to encourage stronger more useful collagen and elastin production. It improves antimicrobial activity.  It can improve the absorption of other actives. It reduces redness. They can help reduce aging and also have anti-inflammatory effects. There are many different peptides, and each has its own specific function.  Most products have two, three or even more different peptides in them. For some skins peptides can cause irritation. But for skins that cannot tolerate Retinol, a peptide may be the answer.

Dead skin cells leave the skin looking dull.  Exfoliating gives the skin a smoother, fresher brighter look. Some exfoliating acids even help boost collagen production. Exfoliating assists all your other products to work better for you and be absorbed more eaasily. This is a must in any skin care routine.  There are a few different types of exfoliating acids, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids, and within these two categories there are also different acids to choose from as all skins are different. Over exfoliating can strip your skin’s natural barrier and can lead to breakouts and oxidative stress and this can result in premature aging and can lead to excessive sebum (oil) production.  Always exfoliate at night after cleansing your face. Always follow up with sunscreen the next day because exfoliating makes the skin more sun sensitive.

Exfoliate with an AHA 3-4 times a week at night.  BHA’S can be used daily at night.